Community Garden

12/24/07 - It's actually time to start thinking gardens down along the Gulf! No wonder we were so behind the curve this last year.
Anyway, here's a great planting guide I found for Zone 8 - which is just about the entire Gulf Coast:
http://members.aol.com/jyex2/garden_la_planting_guide.htm

2/13/08 Also - if you need seeds or bulbs

2/8/07 - Container Gardening Suggestions
2/13/08 - Garden Pest Control
2/11/07 - Look Like A Pro

3/5 - From Angie of The Green Project - will be looking into these organizations VERY soon!
Leslie,Thank you! That blog is a great resource for us all down here.
Here are the websites for the three organizations I mentioned...
http://www.parkwaypartners.com/
http://www.noffn.org/
http://www.crescentcityfarmersmarket.org/
Hope that helps!Angie

2/17 Found at www.TheGreenProject.org - in NOLA
Environmental Education Workshops
4th Saturday of each month
2 part series: Part 1: “Organic growing, from soil to planting system” 3/24, 10—12
Part 2: “Landscaping for form and function in our turbulent times” 4/28, 10 —12

The text in black is from CommunityGarden.org. Text in purple is mine

PLANNING COMMITTEE

It is essential that the group benefitting from garden be involved in all phases.
Organize a meeting of interested people.
Choose a well-organized garden coordinator.
Form committees to accomplish tasks: Funding, Youth; Construction; Communication. (not all will be needed at all gardens)
Approach a sponsor. A sponsor is an individual or organization that supports a community garden. Churches, schools, citizens groups, private businesses, local parks and recreation departments are all potential supporters. Community Development Block Grants are sometimes available through your municipality. (If people get back to us, we might be able to find sponsors - but we won't waste the energy unless interest is shown. KatrinaCoalition@aol.com)
Make a list of what needs to be done.
Find a garden site. (I'm suggesting go to the churches in the area)
Obtain lease or agreement from owner. (most churches don't have any landscaping and I'm sure they'll find it a good idea for their communities to help in this way)
Decide on a mailing address and central telephone number(s).
Try to have at least 3 people who are very familiar with all pertinent information.
Form a telephone tree.
Choose a name for the garden

CHOOSE A SITE

Identify the owner of the land.
Make sure the site gets at least 6 full hours of sunlight daily (for vegetables).
Consider availability of water.
Try and get an agreement which allows the space to be used at least for 3 years.
Consider past uses of the land. Is there any contamination?
Is insurance something you need to consider? (I'm going to say no for the first 3 years.)

PREPARE AND DEVELOP THE SITE

Clean the site. (most will be, but then you'll have to turn the soil for planting)
Gather your resources - free materials. (top soil, containers, mulch, seeds, etc)
Organize volunteers. (Can be coordinated with other recovery efforts)
Plan your work day. (a schedule of people working to prep the area)
Decide on plot sizes, mark plots clearly with gardeners names.
Include plans for a storage area as well as a compost area. (again, coordinate with church)
Have a rainproof bulletin board for announcements and messages.
Arrange for land preparation--plowing, etc--or let gardeners do their own prep.
Will the garden be organic?
Place flower/shrub beds around the visible perimeter - promote good will with community.

ORGANIZE THE GARDEN

Are there conditions for membership (residence, dues, agreement with rules)?
How will plots be assigned (family size, residency, need, youth, elderly, etc.)?
What size plots (or several sizes based on other factors)?
How should plots be laid out?
If the group charges dues, how will the money be used? (I'd refrain from charging for now)
Will the group do certain things cooperatively (turning in soil or composting)?
When someone leaves a plot, how will the next tenant be chosen?
How will the group deal with possible vandalism? (Unlikely to happen)
Will there be a children's plot?
Will the gardeners meet regularly? If so, how often and for what purposes?
Will gardeners share tools, hoses, and other such items?
How will minimum maintenance (especially weeding) be handled both inside plots and in common areas (such as along fences, in flower beds, and in sitting areas)? (addressed later)
Written rules gardeners are expected to uphold? How will they be enforced?
Should your group incorporate and consider eventually owning your garden site?

SETTING UP A NEW GARDENING ORGANIZATION

Many garden groups are organized very informally and operate successfully. Leaders "rise to the occasion" to propose ideas and carry out tasks. However, as the work load expands, many groups choose a more formal structure for their organization.

A structured program is a means to an end. It is a conscious, planned effort to create a system so that each person can participate fully and the group can perform effectively. It's vital that the leadership be responsive to the members. Structure will help an organization to last; it will promote trust; it will help your group grow and create new opportunities for leaders to develop.
Organizational Considerations:
What is your purpose? What are your short and long-term objectives?
How are decisions to be made? Who chooses leaders and how?
How will work be shared? Who does what?
How will you raise money? Membership dues, fund raising, grants, sponsors?
Are you open to change? Flexibility is important when goals and members change. Do you want to be incorporated or act as a club?

What goes into formal Bylaws:
Full official name of organization and legal address.
The purpose, goals and philosophy of the organization.
Membership categories and eligibility requirements.
Membership dues, how much and when paid.
Specify when and how often regular or special meetings of the membership are to be held, as well as regular and annual meetings of the board of directors.
State what officers are necessary, how they are chosen, length of term, their duties and how vacancies are filled.
State special committees, their purpose and how they operate.
Establish a system so that bylaws can be rescinded or amended, maybe by a simple majority. State any official policies or practices: e.g.. garden group will avoid the use of hazardous substances; group will agree to keep all adjacent sidewalks in good repair and free of ice and snow in season; group will make all repairs necessary to keep equipment, fences and furniture in good order and repair.
Include a Hold Harmless clause (sample):
"We the undersigned members of the (name) garden group hereby agree to hold harmless (name owner) from and against any damage, loss, liability, claim, demand, suit, cost and expense directly or indirectly resulting from, arising out of or in connection with the use of the (name) garden by the garden group, its successors, assigns, employees, agents and invites."

All of these things can be worked on in greater detail as the interest is shown. There are people on the ground in MS that are willing to work at establishing these gardens.
Also - there are many gardeners around the nation who've not assisted because they didn't know how. Now is their time to shine! If you are such a person, please contact Leslie at KatrinaCoalition@aol.com or Lynn at l.onufer@ zoominternet.net (spaced to avoid spam) for more information and opportunities.
Holding tool drives, seed drives, container drives, etc., will be of great use. Please consider it!

MS Renaissance Garden Foundation

The Mississippi Renaissance Garden Foundation, Inc. and the Harrison County Beautification Commission invites you to participate in “Horticulture For Humanity”

Help us Bring Back the Beauty of the MS Gulf Coast

We will provide the seeds and bulbs if you will plant “Gardens of Hope” around the coast. Gardens may be small or large, in your yard or in your neighborhood. They may be planted by individuals or groups. When the garden blooms, send in pictures and a short story about how the garden brought hope and beauty into your life, your family, neighborhood, organization, church, school or business. Your story may be selected to win a Mississippi Renaissance Garden of Hope Award and may be featured in local magazines and the media.

Flower and vegetable seed packets as well as daffodil, hyacinth and allium bulbs donated by recovery organizations to The Mississippi Renaissance Garden Foundation will be given away to residents, organizations, schools, churches and businesses agreeing to plant them where they can be seen and enjoyed. The bulbs must be planted as soon as possible. Watch for dates, times and places of distribution in the Sun Herald and on WLOX. There is no charge for the seeds and bulbs; however, donations to the MRG Foundation are appreciated and will go toward the building of a botanical garden and horticultural center in Hiller Park in Biloxi, MS. All donations are tax deductable and receipts will be given.

The Harrison County Beautification Commission, an affiliate of Keep America Beautiful, is working with the MRG Foundation to Bring Back the Beauty of the gulf coast and to make communities cleaner, greener, safer and more livable. The Mississippi Renaissance Garden Foundation, Inc. is a non-profit organization established by MS Gulf Coast residents as a response to the massive environmental destruction of Hurricane Katrina and the Governor’s Mississippi Renaissance Commission on Recovery, Rebuilding and Renewal. Its mission is to create a “Horticulture for Humanity” botanical garden and horticultural center on the Gulf Coast to act as a base for restoring the green spaces lost in Hurricane Katrina and provide environmental education and horticultural therapy for the residents and volunteers working to rebuild the MS Gulf Coast.

A major step toward the building of this premier botanical garden will be the building of a model botanical garden and horticultural center in Biloxi at Hiller Park. This MRG model will be a retreat for those seeking peace and serenity, and a resource center for environmental education and recovery. It will stand to honor all of the survivors, responders, volunteers and heroes involved in Katrina recovery. A Memorial rose garden will be created to remember those who were lost during Katrina. Organizations, businesses or individuals interested in helping to develop various themed gardens within the model garden are invited to submit ideas, materials, services and financial resources. The MRG Horticultural Center will host artistic, cultural, educational and horticultural events for the public. Local artists are invited to participate in the visuals to be used in educational materials.

Individuals and groups interested in participating as Garden Angel Sponsors and Garden Volunteers for Hiller Park may find further information on the web site: http://www.msrengarden.org/ or call: 228-388-2622.

In appreciation for your participation and contributions to this humanitarian and environmental endeavor, The MRG Foundation and the Harrison County Beautification Commission will recognize your generosity with a “Gardener of Hope Card “ which offers special benefits.

They were the recipients of a great grant:
http://katrinanetworking.blogspot.com/2007/12/encore-azalea-gulf-restoration-project.html

Garden Pest Control

Community Gardens - what started all of this
Container Gardens - first installment
Looking Like A Pro - third installment

2/13/08 Diseases affecting vegetable plants - from MSU - more information at the bottom of the page

2/13/08 Insect pictures from MSU

Second Installment
Most 4-leggers aren't such a bad problem unless they've discovered the area to be GREAT for buffet eating. And you want to keep it that way.

Rule #1: Start controlling before you start planting.
Animals are creatures of habit. If they find a particular spot to always be smelly, bad-tasting, or hard to get to, they'll just not go to it or through it anymore. So if you start the habit of avoidance before you put tasty treats in there, it'll be far easier to maintain avoidance after your deer salad-bar is established.
BUT - they will tolerate just about anything if they know there's a good meal at the other side. So if you wait until they've found your growing stash, you've lost the war and the battle.

Rule #2: All animals hate something.
Deer hate the smell and taste of egg whites, the smell of canine urine or any blood, the taste of hot pepper and bananas.
Rabbits, wood chucks, moles, voles, and to a certain extent 'possums and raccoons all hate the smell of canine urine, garlic (not necessarily mixed, but it wouldn't hurt) or any blood, and hate the taste of hot pepper.
Dogs and cats hate the smell of citrus and the taste of hot. Sometimes the smell of vinegar (cats especially).
Slugs and snails die on egg shells.
All don't like dish soap.

I've personally never needed to use urine. You can get powdered at the hunting stores - but I don't bother. Blood sounds really icky, but you can get either bloodmeal or a fertilizer called Malorganite to use. Even just sprinkled lightly within the garden area is enough to keep them at bay.

The other stuff - you can mix together in water with just a little dish soap (helps it stick to plants and paws). Froth up a couple of egg whites, add a tablespoon powdered garlic, a tablespoo hot sauce, teaspoon white pepper or cayenne and just a little bit of dish soap - 1 teaspoon per gallon. mix this into a gallon of water. If you're going to protect a larger area, water spots in regular increments. Like a splash ever 18". The smell will go throughout the area. If it's a small area, saturate the area with it. None of this will hurt the grass or plants. Just don't get any in your eyes. LOL - I'm speaking from experience.

You can crush up your egg shells to use - I crush a dozen at a time in a morter and pestle, but you can also use a blender (my mom's way). Put a little moat of them around each plant stalk you want to protect. Bonus! - generally speaking, the ground is always in need of extra calcium, so this will aid your plants in two ways - protection and root growth.

If you eat a fair number of bananas, just take your peels out to the garden area, and throw them there. Chopping them and scattering is more effective, but not necessary. You can also just place them around the plants you want to protect if you don't want to risk stepping on one. Bonus! Soil can always use extra potassium (potash), so you get double duty again.

Citrus peels - chopped definitely works better. Bonus! Beneficial nematodes LOVE citrus peels. they help ward off BAD bugs - always a good thing.

Rule #3: Nothing lasts forever.
Rain rules. Rain cleanses. And so, the stuff you've just watered your ground with will slowly fade away and will need to be repeated. I generally start with once every 3 days. After 2 weeks, I drop back to once a week for a month, and then usually once a month works - or after a heavy rain - like more than a half inch.

Rule #4: Nothing is perfect.
If the animals find that you're hiding goodies behind a smelly curtain, they're going to find a way through it to eat. This means building a fence. Chicken wire and a couple of stakes works well. You want it to be 4' high and from the ground up - preferably a couple inches IN the ground. Place it about 3' away from your plants, but no more than that. This keeps things from crawling under, reaching over, or jumping in. If you want, you can place your used drier sheets on the fence as well. The smell and the flutter generally is distasteful to the critters - and the smell generally lasts through rainfalls.

Diseases (very pest like)
These are what I've found online to be the most common...
Damping-Off (seedling disease)—Seeds of many vegetables are susceptible to damping-off fungi when planted in infested soils. [This can be avoided by keeping the seedlings warmer rather than cooler.]

Root Rot of Beans and Southern Peas—Root rot is severe on green beans, lima beans, and southern peas. The disease first appears as reddish or reddish-brown areas on stems and roots.

Early Blight of Tomatoes—Early blight is a major disease of tomatoes in Mississippi
[This can be partially controlled with powdered milk of all things. Mulching also helps - keeps soil fromsplashing up on plant and infecting it]

Blossom-End Rot of Tomatoes—Blossom-end rot occurs on the tomato fruit. It begins as a small, water-soaked spot that develops into a dark brown, leathery spot that may involve half the fruit. [Calcium and even moisture - periods of drought and then very wet - are the best way to prevent this. Powdered milk, OR - ground up drywall!]

Spotted Wilt of Tomatoes and Peppers—This viral disease is transmitted by several species of thrips and may kill plants or drastically reduce fruit-set. Fruits from diseased plants are generally small and distorted. Tomatoes develop irregular yellowish blotches. [I've had this happen. Yuck! Pull the plants out as soon as you see they are infected. Don't plant tomatos there for a few years. Don't plant too close together. Mulch to keep soil from splashing up on plants during rain]

Southern Blight—Southern blight affects most garden vegetables. The fungus that causes southern blight attacks plant parts (roots, stems, leaves, or fruit) that are in contact with or just under the soil surface. [aluminum foil 2" and 2" above the soil surface wrapped around the stem]

Mosaic—This virus disease commonly infects beans, sweet corn, squash, melons, cucumbers, peas, peppers, and tomatoes.

Powdery Mildew—Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus that commonly occurs as a white, powdery growth on leaves of cucumbers, squash, melons, beans, and English peas. Benomyl and chlorothalonil effectively control powdery mildew on vine crops, and sulfur provides control on beans and peas [powdered milk, a pinch of baking soda mixed in water and spray until plant is dripping]

Nematode Diseases—Nematodes are slender, tiny, worm-like animals that feed on plant roots, stems, and leaves. Nematodes cannot ordinarily be seen with the naked eye and go unnoticed until plants become unthrifty and stunted [chop up orange peels and scratch into soil.]

Leaf Spots—Leaf spots, caused by fungi or bacteria, commonly occur on many vegetables. They appear on leaves and sometimes stems as distinct, dark-colored or tan spots one-sixteenth to 1 inch in diameter. [It's that powdered milk thing again]

Bacterial Wilt of Cucumbers---This destructive disease is caused by a bacterium that overwinters in the bodies of adult striped and spotted cucumber beetles. As these beetles feed on young plants in the spring, bacteria are introduced into the vascular system.

Looking Like A Gardening Pro

Community Gardens - what started all of this
Container Gardens - First Installment
Pest Control - Second Installment

Third Installment
It's easy to be a beginner and look like a pro with just a few tips. You can read up on other tips if you want, but this will work for the rest of your life if you don't want to go beyond this.

Amending Soil Technical for making it better.

There are strict formulas for good soil. We're not going that deep. All we're going to do is check the soil and add stuff.
It's hard to have too much organic material (floating stuff). So, when in doubt, add organic material.
Testing your soil the easy way:
1 spoon of soil to 5 spoons of water - keep the ratio and it doesn't matter what size your spoon is. Put in glass jar - shake. Let settle for 20 minutes.
Is anything floating? If there isn't much of anything floating - you need to add organic material.
Is there any small pebbles? If not, think about adding a bag or so per year.
Is the water still really cloudy? You have a lot of clay. Add sand, pebbles and organic material.
Organic material is what holds moisture, keeps air in the soil, and feeds the plants and worms. All vital to a good garden!
Pebbles/sand keep the soil from compacting so roots can breathe and water can drain.
You don't need to make it perfect instantly. You can do this throughout the year/years.

Composting - many ways!

Worms - http://www.wormpoop.com/WormBed/WormBed.htm If just one person in your area starts a worm farm, within just a few months, 4 will have enough, and you can keep spreading the wealth! Or, release them (when you have too many) back into the wild to aid the soil that way.
Blender - Using kitchen scraps of everything Except dairy and meat - put in your blender. Just cover with water. Blend until slushy consistency. Pour and mix into the soil around your plants. Instant food for both plant and worm.
Hot Composting - takes more work than the 2 above. A triple bin that the 3 bins are 1 cubic yard each (3'x3'x3') is best. Get enough stuff - a mix of leaves, grass clippings, weeds, kitchen scraps (no dairy or meat!), manure if you can to fill the first bin. Once you have it full, make sure it's as wet as a rung out sponge. Turn it 2-3 times/week. After 2 weeks, turn it into the next bin. Start the first bin over. After 2 weeks of turning both bins a couple times per week, move them over 1 bin. In about 1 week, the third bin is ready to use in the garden. This way gives you a steady supply, which is GOOD if your soil isn't doing so well.
Cold Composting - Easier, but you'll be waiting for a year. Add your organic material - just like above, to a pile - preferably 1 cubic yard, but can be bigger or smaller. Just add without turning - unless you want to stir it up. It's not vital. A year later, move the top layers to a new spot - right by the old pile. Use the old layers in your garden.

Fertilize

What the stupid letters mean:
N - nitrogen - makes pretty leaves
P - phosporous - makes strong roots and stems
K - potassium (potash) - makes pretty flowers and fruits.
I use a generic 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, spread lightly over the garden monthly. Since most of America's un-amended soil is depleted of all nutrients, it won't hurt to use this. Put it down before a nice rainstorm, but not one that you think will go over 1" - as it will wash the fertilizer away.
Letters they don't put in the fertilizer:
Ca - calcium - GREAT roots and fruit that doesn't fall off
It's too pricey so they don't put it in. Grind up eggshells or buy bone meal. Get eggshells at your local breakfast diner. They'll save them for you! I rinse them, bake them at 200 for 10 minutes, then grind them up in blender or mortle and pestle.
Mg - magnesium - Epsom Salts - BIG fruits and blooms. Scatter lightly in garden monthly.
ETOH - alcohol - keeps plants stocky to focus on fruits. 1 ounce per 5 gallons monthly.

Pinching/Planting

Plant seeds at the depth they recommend. Too close and they'll make weak roots. Too deep and they'll never make it to the surface.
Plant plants to the bottom set of the leaves. Will make stronger root system for hot mid-summer days. Place a teaspoon of coffee grounds mixed with ground eggshells in hole with plant. Or water with a liquid fertilizer.
Pinch tops of flowering plants. Stick pinchings in soil - might root and will fill garden in that much more. Pinching will stimulate plant to make more stalks that will hold more blooms.

Mulch

Use 1"-3" of organic material. Leaf mulch is best, but shredded wood will work. I don't recommend anything else. Rocks are too hot, don't hold moisture in and do nothing else for the soil. Bark, virtually the same reason. Pine needles, can be too acidic, blow away, float away and take more nutrients to break down than they release. Ditto pecan shells.
Place all around garden, leaving 1" all the way around the stems of the plants. Helps with bug control.
Mulch will hold moisture, moderate temperature extremes, control weeds and add nutrients to the soil.
AND, will make your garden look VERY polished.

Container Gardening

Community Gardens - what started all of this
2/10 Pest Control - second installment
2/11 Looking Like A Pro - third installment

First installment to go with the Community Gardens Recovery Garden Program:
Container Gardening

Rule #1: If it can hold soil, it can hold a plant.
As long as you can make it drain water, you can use it as a container for plants. I’ve seen people put plants in old boots! That’s going a bit far, BUT here’s a partial list of items that are in just about every community that you can use:
Milk Jugs
Big Soda Bottles
Old Dresser Drawers
Old Desk Drawers
Old Fridge Drawers
Just make sure there’s enough room for drainage material, roots and at least an inch of space at the top of the container. The larger the plant, the deeper the root space must be.
Consider letting the kids paint them to make them look prettier. It gets them involved!

Rule #2: Give the plants some breathing room.
People used to put gravel and such in the bottoms of the containers for this purpose. But when you’re looking at larger containers, that idea gets heavy. Line the bottoms of your containers with about an inch of something. Here’s a list of items you can use to give some air space in the bottoms of the containers:
Broken terra cotta
Packing Peanuts (my favorite!)
Crumpled Plastic Grocery Bags
Styrofoam pieces
Strips of cardboard set vertically rather than on its face

Rule #3: Be prepared to water.
This can be tricky. Containers don’t have the luxury of the ground to wick moisture from surrounding soil. But watering too much will kill the plants faster than never watering. Check the soil with your finger. Go in to the soil about to the second knuckle. If your fingertip is damp, there’s enough water. If it’s dry, water until it’s dripping out of the bottom of the container.
Mulch the soil. This will add nutrients, keep the soil some cooler and help retain the moisture it already has. No more than an inch and keep it from touching the stems of the plants if you can.

Rule #4: Fertilize lightly.
Containers can’t tolerate many of the time-released versions of granular fertilizer you would use on the ground. The plants will burn up from the nitrogen. Liquid based fertilizers are best. An easy fertilizer – Epsom salts and milk. When you’ve emptied a milk container. Fill it with water, put a teaspoon of Epsom salts in and water your plants with that. Skim milk is best for this.

Rule #5: Protect your containers from the extremes.
Extreme heat will keep most plants from producing many flowers or fruits. South East exposure is best. This will give them the 6 hours of sun, but will keep them out of the heat of the sun and air in the afternoon. They’ll still droop in the afternoon, but we humans do too, so don’t worry. Consider painting your containers a light color to help reflect some of the heat away. Cluster your containers so they can shelter each other.

Rule #6: Anything will grow in a container, but…
Some plants are better suited to container gardens than others:
Herbs tend to do very well.
Tomatoes
Peppers
Greens
Carrots (if they don’t get too hot)
Beets (ditto)
Cucumbers (if they have room to climb)
Bush Beans
Pole Beans (again, room to climb)
Cooler vegetables don’t like containers so much unless planted very early. They just get too hot.